It was Thursday afternoon. We landed in Kigali International Airport. The weather so beautiful, basically a dream day in a dream place. The airport security was so easy on us. The only question we were asked over and over again was "Excuse moi madam, do you have your badge?" I guess I never knew how effective the UN security badge would be.
After arriving at the ICTR headquarters in Kigali, I began to see it. I began to see what everyone else was telling me about imagining what each individual who slightly resembled the stereotypical image of a Tutsi went through. I began to look at anyone who was of a taller and slimmer frame, and imagine what may have happened to his or her family. I could see images and scenes of a Genocide I never was a witness to. What is sad, is that I have very little respect for individuals who claim that they understand or can imagine what occurred. I began to view my own thoughts and so called experience in Kigali as that of a hypocrite and an ignorant activist.
Regardless of my thoughts and opinions of the Genocide, one thing no one can deny is that Kigali and Rwanda in general is absolutely beautiful. I have never seen a country that is full of hills and beautiful scenery. In Kigali, no matter where you go you have a beautiful sight to capture. The most enjoyable part of my experience was hoping on to the motorcycle taxis. I remember hoping and praying that people in the street were not observing the corny look I had on my face. I had a huge smile that I could not stop.
Our second day was spent traveling to the northern side of Rwanda. We were heading to Butare. Buare is a prefecture in the south, where a large portion of the Tutsi population lived, hence became a perfect site for most of the massacres. In fact the case I am assigned to in the Office of the Prosecutor is called Butare. The ride was interesting, although a bit long. The beneficial aspect was that we got to see most of the country side. Unfortunately one of the interns that were with us decided to ask a local about one of the memorial sites. The local gave her bad directions and we were stopped about 2 hours away from our original destination.
We landed in an obscure village in the middle of no where. It was RPF day, RPF day signified the day the RPF liberated Kigali, and very few people spoke English. In fact let me rephrase that, NO ONE SPOKE ENGLISH. And my "ampe francais" could take me almost no where in Rwanda. After hours of frustration in the burning heat, a Chinese business man stopped for us hitch hikers. He turned out to be a very nice man, who gave us a lot of advice in regards to traveling in Rwanda.
We finally reached Butare, and all the transcripts I had been reading for a month became real. We sat and ate at Hotel Ibis, where the majority of the road blocks along with a substantial amount of the killings took place. We walked a little more and found a large gathering at a local school. Almost five thousand people were present to celebrate RPF day. It was by far the most interesting thing I ever saw in my life. I remember noticing a 8 month old child sitting next to his mother, who was selling corn. He had a flag in his hand and was waiving it so innocently. I stood to think of whether his generation will have to also reap the pain of one of the most horrific man made incidents in the 20th century.
We made our way out to Gikongoro, and took a motorcycle ride to Murambi school. Murambi is a memorial site where almost 50,000 Tutsis had been killed. The only difference is the Tutsis that were killed in Murambi had resisted. Apparently there was quite a bit of resistance and that is why this cite is so treasured. We walked into the classrooms and bodies were laid out in front of us. The skeletons had been preserved as a symbol of remembrance. Walking in, one can see the machette scars on the bodies, and skulls that had been broken with traditional clubs.
Regardless of what I did after that visit, the genocide haunted me in my visit to Rwanda. I began to walk through the streets of Kigali questioning what happened at every corner. To me, Kigali had a sense of sadness. To me, Rwanda had a sense of sadness. Although some may feel that it is time to move on, I believe its not. I believe that there needs to be a total acknowledgment of what occurred and a consistant reminder.
I will end with the beautiful words of Edna St. Vincent Millay:
Down, down, down into the darkness of the grave
Gently they go, the beautiful, the tender, the kind;
Quietly they go, the intelligent, the witty, the brave.
I know. But I do not approve. And I am not resigned.